Author: Andy Tomlinson

The 1953 Journal is a celebration of the Club’s 50th Anniversary. At the time, photographs were few and far between, so all the articles are mainly prose. There is an amazing selection to choose from as shown here:I was torn between Neil Mather’s Peteret Ridge and Ted Courtenay’s Tan Hill Walk; indeed these two authors are Club legends. Ultimately, The Tan Hill Walk [click here] stood out as a celebration of an activity central to the Club over many years…long arduous walks. It records the first Tan-Cat walk, which Courtenay proposed to friends in the Club as “a hundred-mile hill walk, to take place sometime during the Jubilee year”. Neil Mather was one of the participants although he pulled out after completing over 100 miles because of severe knee pain…undeterred he returned the next year to complete it, as recorded by Brockbank, his partner, in the 1954 Journal [click here]. Finally, the whole of the 1953 Journal can be accessed here…happy reading!

The 1973 Journal is full of great articles making the choice of just one difficult. There were several based on Munroing, an article on the Alpine 4000ers and the one chosen, authored by Eddie Birch, on the fourth ascent of Fitzroy in Patagonia via a new route up the SE Ridge by the British Argentinian Expedition in 1972 of which Eddie was a member. It paints a picture of a different era of expedition travel and life with two of the members taking vast quantities of gear and food in a VW out by boat to be joined by the others in the team in Argentina. It was a highly successful trip and, as Eddie noted, they were very fortunate as all members maintain a harmonious and cordial working friendship throughout. The photo shows Fitzroy on the right with the Mount Poincenot on the right which, together, form a central part in the Patagonia clothing logo! The map below shows the route taken; the SE Ridge can be clearly seen in the photograph above. Enjoy the article, which can be accessed by clicking here  

Between 1945 and 1950 Peter Harding was one of the leading climbers in the UK, who was also credited with inventing the modern ‘hand-jam’, although it is more likely that he rediscovered it! First ascents include such iconic routes as Promontory Traverse [Black Rocks, 1945], Valkyrie [Roaches, 1946], Suicide Wall [Cratcliffe, 1946], Goliath’s Groove [Stanage, 1947] and Ivy Sepulchre [Dinas Cromlech, 1947]. He joined the Rucksack Club in 1947 remaining a member until his death in 2007. He continued to climb throughout his life although less cutting edge and sometimes further afield. He climbed the Matterhorn on four occasions with his last [a solo of the Hornli Ridge in 1993 aged 69] recounted in the excellent article “Just a Bit Difficult” in the 1993 Journal. Here’s the link to the article. Peter Harding, first ascent of Promontory Traverse [E1/5b], Black Rocks 1945. Photo: © Rucksack Club Peter Harding, first ascent Goliath’s Groove [HVS/5a], Stanage 1947. Photo: © Rucksack Club Peter Harding circa 1945. Photo © Rucksack Club Peter Harding, 1995. Photo: © Gordon Stainforth Peter Harding leading Valkyrie [VS, Roaches] in 1995. Photo: © Gordon Stainforth The Hornli Ridge.  Photo: ET Roberts © Rucksack Club

We are relaunching the “Dip into the Club Journals” (previously known as “Classic Journal Articles”) in a more systematic way. There will be an article every month with links to the Club Instagram and Facebook pages. The plan is to look back through the archives at 10 year intervals, starting this month with an article from the 2013 Journal and in March one from 2003…and so on. So, for starters we have chosen an article by Will Harris recounting adventures on his first trip to Alaska. Whilst Will had recently completed his university studies he was already an accomplished mountaineer and he describes, in an understated way, the ascent of some significant routes whilst also being brutally honest about what is considered the gold standard for completing these routes! Finally, he provides some useful Beta (even 10 years later) on climbing in Alaska…click here for the article and enjoy!