Wednesday evening meet…30th May

John Warby writes:

Just in case any one is wondering where the “sit down wall” is for my meet on 30th May.Coming down the road towards Stoney Middleton from Chapel en le frith, when you enter the dale you pass Horse shoe quarry parking on the left, lots of cars there and pretty obvious. An open and exposed face known to the locals as the Sphinx, this impressive buttress is easily seen to the right of the horseshoe bend when travelling from the parking area of Horseshoe Quarry towards Stoney Middleton. It gives a handful of routes with ease of access, ideal for a summer’s evening.

Approaches:

Parking is a little tricky, but there is one small lay-by right on the crown of the bend on the right-hand side of the road when coming from Horseshoe Quarry. Walk up the slope, hop over the fence and the crag is up and to the left.,also there is a steep road going up on the right follow this and there is parking for about 4 cars on the left, walk up the road for about 100 yards and go over the break in the fence you can see the crag on the left, there’s plenty of well bolted routes from 5 to 7a. John Warby.

Aspect:

The crag is very open, with one south face and one west face, and only gets the sun almost all day long but can be breezy due to its open aspect. The rock is good and in an exposed position.

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