The Rucksack Club

Alpine Meet 2008. Climbed the east ridge to the central summit of the Breithorn

With Ros Murray and Neil Harwood.  We were going to climb the three rock steps on the left to the central summit of the Breithorn and then descend to Klein Matterhorn from the col before the main summit on the rightFirst lift to Klein Matterhorn and now approaching the start of the climb.  Neil and Ros.The start of the first pitch.  Ros led the whole route.On the first step.Between the second and third steps.  The route went from the notch in the ridge ahead.Near the top.  We are heading for the col before the main summit.We were badly held up by another party towards the top and missed the last cable car down from Klein Matterhorn.  Rather than try and sleep in the cold, wet, dank tunnel at the station we walked down to Trockensteg, the next station.  We managed to get a workmens lift down to the next station (rather than the bottom) but then had a long walk into Zermatt and the train back to the campsite where Carole gave us a lift home.  We were tired!

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Virtual Slideshows – Links and schedule through to July

The Tuesday Evening Virtual Slideshows have proved to be hugely popular, with over 100 participants at each of the first four in the series. These are all available for ‘catch-up’ viewing at https://test.rucksackclub.org/virtual-meet-gallery/ We now have a program scheduled until early July and these can all be joined by using the SAME log in details: https://zoom.us/j/93547263254 Meeting ID: 935 4726 3254 – Requires password (year of founding of The Rucksack Club) All shows start at 7:30pm prompt, with ‘doors open’ from 7pm if you want to baggsy the best seats or just say hello! Also bear in mind that the slideshows themselves will be recorded for public viewing, so please feel free to ‘stop your video’ if you don’t want to be part of the show. See the Events Calendar for full details but here are the headlines for the Forthcoming Attractions:  

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The Rucksack Club

Classic RCJ article: A Bivouac at Thirteen Thousand Feet, by Stanley Jeffcoat [1912]

The next offering for the Classic RCJ article appeared in the 1912 Journal entitled “A Bivouac at Thirteen Thousand Feet”. Another understated article, it is a delight to read…candles rather than head torches, no alarm clocks and step cutting, are some of the impediments to climbing not normally suffered by the modern alpinist! The description of the pleasures of an unplanned bivi will, however, ring true to many. Its author, Stanley Jeffcoat [above], was a rising star in the Rucksack Club. He was elected to the Club in November 1908 at the age of 24 and was already an experienced climber in the UK and Switzerland. He rapidly developed his skills in the Peak, Wales and the Lakes climbing with the likes of Herford and Laycock. Three first ascents in the Peak stand out: Jeffcoat’s Chimney [VDiff] and Jeffcoat’s Buttress [HS 5a] at the Roaches [both climbed in 1913] and Scoop Face [HVS 5a] at Castle Naze [1914]…the picture below shows Jeffcoat soloing Scoop Face barefoot! Scoop Face remains a Peak District classic and is a Top 50 route in the Western Grit Rockfax Guide. A year after becoming a Club member he was on the Committee and delegated to[…]

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Virtual Slideshows: Tuesday evenings April, May and June!

Tonight’s Virtual Indoor Meet features Will Harris sharing a tale of “Expedition Experiences” featuring his ascent of The Infinite Spur in the Denali Range in Alaska. Here’s the link to join the Zoom Meeting https://us02web.zoom.us/j/88139669566 Meeting ID: 881 3966 9566 Password: The year of the founding of the Rucksack Club Looking ahead we’ve got a fun-packed program coming together: 28th April – Member’s photos: John Warburton on Carnmore Crag, Lis Bloor ticking Wainwrights and Dave Palmer bagging Alpine 4,000ers. 5th May – Phillip Smith Mark Jenneson and Rich Clegg will be talking about what happened when ‘Three once-a-year weekend warriors go to Chamonix’ 12th May – Andy Stewart and Debbie Whittaker will have the low down on their ‘Never Again! bike ride in Ladakh 19th May – John Beatty will be wowing us with some of his amazing pics 26th May – More Members’ Photos: David Nightingale Trekking in Nepal, Rae Pritchard and Helen Allison covering a lot of ground, and Rosalind Fowler likewise! June is shaping up nicely too, with Norwegian Big Walling, Himalayan adventures, St Kilda, Ecuador and more wintery stuff likely to feature! Wow – I’ll need to get in training just to watch it all! Keep[…]

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Stay in there

The Moffat Hills in Winter: Tom Anderson

Tom Anderson has sent a short video of a series of photographs taken in the Moffat Hills in 2017. Tom writes (in lock down!): the group in the pictures had come up from Moffat and I think they were on a D of E expedition! The Moffat hills are often missed by climbers going north on Munro trips. The three hills Hart Fell, Saddle Yoke and White Coomb are a delight to do in a round and are at their best in snowy conditions. This is my favourite place in the Southern uplands and is a short drive from the M74. I think this area has an advantage over the Lakes as it does not have large numbers of visitors. I recommend you visit them next time you’re passing.  

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North Face of the Tour Ronde: Jim Morris

Climbed the north face of the Tour Ronde in 1999 with Roger Wild. We took the bubbles to the Torino Hut and had a typical alpine start the next day. The bergshrund at the foot of the face was horrendous – a ten foot vertical wall with a horrendous slot if you came off! Roger is up front approaching the narrows and I’m then following. In the photo of me if you look carefully you can see our footprints approaching the bergshrund. Finally Roger at the summit with the Brenva face of Mont Blanc at the back. Jim Morris  

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The Rucksack Club

Classic RC Journal article: “A True Account of a Moorland Walk” by F.A. Dust [1908]

This Classic RC Journal article appeared in the anthology published by the Rucksack Club in 1987. The Preface of the anthology notes that Dust accomplishes two things: he provides a memorable account of a long day out in the company of a group of prodigious fell walkers and that he adopted a particular style, ‘depreciatory praise’. Reading the article reminds me of Club walks involving present day Pickstone and Corbett personalities…the last time being on the night crossing of Bleaklow on this year’s M-E double!  So, enjoy A True Account of a Moorland Walk by clicking here. 

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